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Steakhouse chain Smith & Wollensky didn't hold back when it announced plans to reopen in Ohio's capital.
The brand's president, Nathan Evans, said in June 2024 that after an 'exhaustive search,' the Hyatt Regency Hotel in downtown Columbus would host the chain's newest location, complete with an 'elegant dining room,' an 'expansive patio,' and valet service.
The upscale eatery, which is known as 'America's steakhouse' and often features $17 hash browns and a 26oz prime rib for $82, had only shut its Columbus branch in 2023 after two decades serving diners seeking a white-tablecloth experience.
The New York–born chain has long been a pop-culture icon, thanks in part to a memorable cameo in The Devil Wears Prada, where Anne Hathaway's character Andy Sachs is ordered by boss Miranda Priestly, played by Meryl Streep, to fetch a steak from the restaurant for lunch.
'We were deeply missed by the community when our previous venue closed at the end of our 20-year lease,' Evans said at the time, saying Columbus had a 'special place in our hearts.'
'Now, we are excited not just to serve our loyal guests again but to be part of the fabric of downtown and the vibrant Arena District.'
Fast-forward to 2025, and the Buckeye State is still without a Smith & Wollensky - and it's likely to remain that way.
A spokesperson confirmed to the Daily Mail the brand had made the 'difficult decision' to suspend its planned return to Columbus and instead focus on 'international expansion and strategic growth opportunities.'
The move reflects a wider trend across the American restaurant industry, experts told the Daily Mail, as brands pivot to overseas markets to escape soaring costs and a saturated domestic scene.
Analysts say restaurant chains are chasing growth in Asia and the Middle East, where American dining is considered aspirational - and where governments are offering better incentives, cheaper labor, and lower rents than at home.
Smith & Wollensky has recently opened a new restaurant in Manila, the capital of the Philippines, and is planning further launches in Tokyo, Japan, and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Despite the global push, the company remains invested in the U.S. market - mainly in major metropolitan hubs such as New York, Boston, Las Vegas, and Chicago.
Hospitality experts say the brand's decision mirrors a wider industry trend.
Ada Hu, CEO of NU Media, a marketing firm that works with global hospitality clients, told the Daily Mail that American restaurant groups are increasingly looking abroad for growth.
'In Asia and the Middle East, American food and beverage brands are perceived as aspirational and innovative,' she said.
'Tariffs and high domestic operating costs have made international markets more attractive. Global exposure helps offset volatility at home.
'International expansion allows them to diversify revenue streams, tap into emerging middle-class spending, and build global brand equity.'
Hospitality lawyer David Helbraun said the shift is being driven by a U.S. dining landscape that's 'saturated, expensive, and increasingly difficult to navigate.'
'Everything from permitting delays to labor shortages to rising food costs makes domestic expansion feel like pushing a boulder uphill,' Helbraun said.
'Meanwhile, markets abroad — especially in Europe and Asia — are offering financial incentives, streamlined processes, and often, a better labor pool. The real drivers are lower overseas labor costs and rents, which have become untenable in many U.S. cities.'
Hu said she's seeing a 'clear increase' in mid-size restaurant groups and premium casual brands focusing on their overseas presence — and predicts big names like Smith & Wollensky will continue to pull out of smaller cities in favor of powerhouse metros.
'Labor and real estate costs make smaller cities less attractive, while international markets offer both scale and novelty,' she said. 'Many brands are concentrating resources on flagship locations in major metros and using those as launchpads for overseas growth.'
However, Hu added that the move isn't purely about escaping an unstable U.S. economy.
'Even in a strong domestic market, expansion abroad builds brand prestige and diversifies exposure,' she said. 'It's less about fleeing economic headwinds and more about long-term positioning in global hospitality culture.'