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Between 2012 and 2015, my commute to college involved taking a train past the abandoned Battersea Power Station. Fast forward to 2025, though, and the dark mass is a bright haven of shops, restaurants, pubs, flats, and entertainment. One of the newest additions comes from legendary British chef Gordon Ramsay. With an average rating of 4.2/5 from 1,489 reviews on Google it seemed very popular so I decided to pop along on a Thursday evening to see whether it lived up to the hype.
As with my reviews of James Martin’s Lygon Arms and Jamie Oliver’s Catherine Street the plan was a two-course strategy. Given I wasn't driving, I also treated myself to one glass of wine. I also invited a couple of companions along to see what they thought.
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Inside the restaurant
I had to feel for the venue on this one. Normally the interior is more dramatic and engaging than the world you came in from, but it can be hard to beat Battersea Power Station’s massive atriums and gargantuan hallways. Nevertheless, the restaurant feels plush, premium and snug; exactly how you’d want it to feel.
Walk in through the glass doors and you’re presented with a relatively low lit room with glass walls on all sides. The tables are a dark wood with chairs of an even darker wooden hue and leather backs – good start.
Unlike Jamie Oliver’s restaurant this doesn’t feel like it’s trying to represent the personality of the man, but rather the fact it’s a serious restaurant that hopes to serve seriously good food. About that second point…
The main course
A quick scout of the menu showed that I may very quickly have been in for an expensive evening. Almost every item seemed like it was twenty or thirty percent pricier than it would be in other places. I understand this is a leveraging of Gordon Ramsay’s name. If you’ve got a celebrity attached to the operation of your venue, you’re within your rights to have slightly higher prices as that’s a draw for people.
However, this leveraging only goes so far. Too little and you lose on the balance sheet, too much and you end up like Gordon Ramsay Bread Street, as demonstrated by my main.
As I scoured the menu my eyes landed on the £40-plus dry-aged sirloin steak. In September I’d been to a friend’s 30th birthday at legendary steak specialists Hawksmoor so this felt like an astounding price for a place that wasn’t ostensibly a steak restaurant.
Ordering the steak with some macaroni and cheese and a side salad, I was simply disappointed. The steak over-salted and the peppercorn sauce didn’t taste like it had much pepper in it at all.
Meanwhile, the side salad was under-dressed and leaning heavily on pomegranates to give it some semblance of flavour. The macaroni and cheese was good, but at this price point the customer deserves better than good.
Comparing this to Hawksmoor was like putting up a man in the same weight category who has a normal job and knows the fundamentals of boxing against Tyson Fury. The former may fight well, but they’ll always lose against the one who does this for a living. Hawksmoor need not worry about Ramsay.
My fellow diners went different routes. One opted for the roasted cod with crushed potatoes, artichoke, capers, red wine and lemon sauce (£30.50) and the other the regular burger (£23.50). The cod eater gave a full throated positive feedback of his dish that, whilst pricy, did at least look and taste the part.
Meanwhile, my burger eating friend was also happy with their ‘spenny’ dish. It had been edible, but not set the world alight or stood out.
On a side note, whilst the menu was on the expensive side the wines were mellower and the 2023 Braucol Syrah worked perfectly with the steak.
The dessert
For dessert, I opted for the spiced apple crumble and this is where Bread Street clawed back some ground. The spicing was on point and felt like the perfect autumnal winter warmer as the nights begin to close in and the weather becomes more even more harsh. The ice cream dolloped in the middle contrasted well and made it a very pleasant experience.
My co-diners went for the sticky toffee pudding and tiramisu (accompanied by a glass of port) and respectively echoed my sentiments about the seasoning and taste of their desserts. If you’re coming here and you’re only having two courses, opt for dessert as one of them and you won’t be disappointed.
Final thoughts and rating
If you’re in the area and you feel like a premium dinner that’s worth the price, go somewhere else. The food is high quality no doubt with everything well-cooked. Overall, the wine, the cod, and puddings all excelled and were worthy of the man whose name they’re served under.
However, it is impossible to ignore the end cost. When prices are this high the food can’t just be good, it has to be incredible. Earlier I mentioned Hawksmoor. At the end of that night my total spend had been £104, but that felt worth it for just how amazing an eating experience it had been; the food had justified the price to the fullest extent possible.
Contrast that to my night at Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street where my total spend was £92.28 (£11.72 less) and I felt for the second time in a week like I’d been ripped a new one. The first time had been food poisoning the Sunday before, but I still felt the price was punching too high for the experience we’d just had.
Rating: 4/10
Total Bill - £92.28
Breakdown
- Dry-aged Sirloin steak: £45
- Peppercorn sauce: £3.00
- Macaroni cheese: £7.75
- Side Salad: £5
- Spiced apple crumble: £10
- Braucol Syrah 125ml: £9.50
- 15 percent service charge: £12.03